In the tour package I purchased an unguided kayaking trip was included. I could have spent an entire day exploring the bay but was only given an hour. Getting close to the karsts is when you realize just how amazing the bay is. The water is smooth as glass and about 30 feet deep. I saw some golden eagles dipping to the water to catch fish and I was told that north of the bay there are several Bald Eagles.
Sunday, August 23, 2009
Ha Long Bay from the upper opening of the cave, provided the only high long distance views I was able to see. Quite spectacular, but the pictures just can't capture the beauty and serenity you felt here. Even with the boats and all the tourists it was peaceful and far to relaxing, I could have spent more time just cruising the bay.
There is a great deal of fishing on the bay, some illegal, such as dropping dynamite overboard as this fisherman had just done and then netting the results. Most of the fish are small, but numerous and there are also large squid at certain times of the year. They catch the squid on a jig, when the squid are red they're hungry when they are full they sink to the bottom. One of the guides on the boat told me he caught about 30 in 15 minutes, unfortunately the squid were not running the night I was there.
You can see the erosion marks on the bottom of the karsts. It has been estimated that the karsts have been exposed to tidal current for about 3 million years. The tides are extreme but very gentle, absolutely no waves and very slow current. I can see why it took so long for the erosion to get to where it is. To the right of the karst is one of three floating villages in Ha Long Bay to the left are local fisherman.
Our captain had a very relaxed attitude to his piloting duties. We were cruising at maybe 3 miles an hour so I suppose it could get a might boring sitting there. The harbor was a different story. There are junks everywhere going in every imaginable direction. The scene was reminiscent to bumper cars but with no contact.
Ha Long Bay, Vietnam is the most remarkable places I've been so far. In 1997 it was decided by UNESCO to become an international historic site and is therefore highly protected. Prior to '97 it was fair game to anyone to do whatever.
The sails on the Junks are stricly for show, they are far to small to move these large boats. The tide is extreme, about 6 feet on regular tides and up to 15 on full moons.
The boat races in Luang Prabang are to celebrate the religious spirit that is thought to reside at the junction of the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. Each of the 25 boating teams leave an offering of food, flowers or money at the junction before the races begin. I don't know what they get if they win but they are very earnest in their pursuit of the finish line. The offering may be to escape drowning when your boat sinks. The event is celebrated by what looks like the entire country of Laos, it was so crowded, but it is only a local event. It does draw crowds from Thailand, since the event is celebrated for a week with triple the amount of street stalls. The Thais, being a very resourceful lot, can't resist getting in on anything where they can sell their wares.
Near Luang Prabang, Laos are the waterfalls called Euang Si. The falls come from a limestone maountain. The rocks and trees that are in the water have stalagtite like deposits on them which I would assmue are limestone. I found out first ahnd that the water is very cold but quite refreshing on a hot day
Monday, August 10, 2009
Our toilet stop was near a village and we were provided with entertainment from the local kids. They did backflips and sommersaults into the river. They stopped as soon as we started boarding the boat to continue our trip down river, it was done for our benefit. Our send off was heartwarming with all the smiles and hand waving. The kids have an innocence here I wish we had in the states. They haven't been tainted by overexposure to mature information at a young age. They get a chance to be kids.
I took a boat back to Luang Prabang from Nong Khiew on the Nam Ou river which connects to the Mekong in Luang Prabang. Very close to the water and no cushions, my butt took a real beating for 4 hours but it again was worth the pain. All the rivers here are brick red in color, very turbulent, to the point where the current will actually make waves, about 18" in height, going in the opposite direction of the flow.
The views from my guesthouse balcony, $4.50 US per night, were astounding. The clouds would hoover just below the peaks of the mountain and created an incredible scene. Just as serene a setting as can be found on any deserted tropical island. Mornings and evenings were very comfortable so I didn't need AC.
This cave in Nong Khiew was used in the 60's as a bomb shelter when, you know who, was using blanket bombs. The cave was very large at least 10,000 sq.ft with several compartments. It housed the governor and his cabinet and many of the town people. I sat here for quite some time cooling off with a couple I met here. The walk was about 5km from town but the views were worth the exertion and sweat, lots of that.
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Don Det's fuel stations, all three of them, provide the fuel for the generators for electricity, boat motors and the few motorbikes that are on the island. There are no cars and consequently the "roads" are very narrow and are simply compacted dirt or mud depending on the rain fall. The Mekong will rise to the bottom step just below the gas pump.
Mekong River
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